Kayak Fishing Ultimate Resource

Tuesday, 26 November 2013 17:37

Patching up those leaky waders

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If you wear anything to keep waterproof, be it waders or a dry suit, and you spend any time kayak fishing, chances are at some point there will be a hole that will make for a miserable discovery. Breathable dry gear is expensive--a couple hundred bucks each for waders and dry tops, and much more for dry suits. Fortunately holes and small tears are easily repaired, and can bring new life to something you might otherwise shove aside and replace.

 patching tools

Most of what is needed to fix up your old waders

My gear had some hard abuse over the last few years. It’s now at the point that whatever I wear, be it my dry suit, waders, or dry pants, I end up with wet feet. It was time to get my suit patched up and ready for some cold winter fishing action.

Chances are, you have almost everything needed to repair your waders or dry suit. The most important thing you will need to pick up is Aquaseal®. Aquaseal® is available at most outdoor stores, and certainly any kayak shop. This is what will be filling in small pinholes in the suit, or adhering patches over larger holes. Aquaseal® sells in a small tube for a few bucks, and there is enough for many repairs. Between my dry suit, dry pants, dry top, and waders, I haven't even used half a tube. Aquaseal® is also used for rubber gasket replacement, should that become necessary.


 Aquaseal® is the only thing you will probably have to go out and buy.

Another thing you will need is a light source. Flashlights work great, but I couldn't find the one right in front of my face until I was done. Small fluorescent fixtures are good, too, but they are cumbersome. Don't use halogen or incandescent lights, which will get hot and cause even more problems for you. You'll also need a marker to keep track of holes you find, and if you know you have tears and holes over 1/4" long, you'll need some patch material (eVent, GORE-TEX®, etc.). Dry suits usually come with a small patch, but check your local kayak shop if you don't have anything suitable.

That light would be a tell-tale sign of a hole in my dry suit.

Starting off, you need clean gear. Check out the article from last spring to see how to properly clean your breathable fabrics. With everything clean and dry, turn your suit inside out. Reaching into arms and legs, scan around with the flashlight. Light will shine through the holes, if they are there. Use the marker to circle these areas.

worn spots
Here are couple very small pinholes that probably came from errant hooks or rockfish spines.

What you find when running the light through the suit will dictate where to go from here. I had a couple holes that were patch-worthy, though small. Patches are best made round, so there are no sharp corners that can promote snagging. I chose to use a quarter to shape my patching, but you might need something larger. Patches should extend about 1/2" around holes and tears. Using the quarter as a guide, I traced circles around the holes in the suit I was patching and another circle in the patch material as a guide to cut out the patch. If you have a large tear to patch, you might need something like a fishing line spool, or bigger, to make sure you cover the whole area.

patch taped
Right-side out, I’ve taped up the hole so the Aquaseal® won’t leak through.

Now, turn the suit right-side out. You need to tape the outside of the suit. If you have a hole, the tape will keep the Aquaseal® from leaching through and gluing the other side of the suit. If you have a tear, make sure the tape is holding the torn edges together as closely as possible. Painter’s tape is the best option for this, as the tape will not stick to the suit. It will remove cleanly and easily when the time comes. With things taped up, turn the suit inside out again.

patch traced and cut
Here I’ve got the area I am going to patch traced out and my patches cut.

It's time to clean, yet again, all the spots that require repair. This time all you need is some rubbing alcohol. A rag or cotton ball will be fine. If there was anything left behind from the earlier wash, the alcohol will help take care of it. The alcohol also will not affect the Aquaseal®.

Lay the patch out on a piece of cardboard, and spread a thin layer of Aquaseal® over the whole patch. On the suit, apply more Aquaseal® over the area that the patch is going to cover. Make sure that the whole area is covered with Aquaseal® and even a little bit beyond the area you marked. This will help bond the edges of the patch. Once the glue is on both pieces, line up your patch and press it into place. When in place, cover it with a piece of wax paper and use a large book or other heavy object to help press it into place. Leave it like this at least overnight - twelve hours is ideal.

patch patched
Patch glued into place. I got so into gluing the inside of the suit, the patch is backwards. It’ll still work.

In the morning, remove the book and wax paper, turn the suit right-side out, remove the tape and inspect the patch job. Chances are your suit is good to go fishing. If at all possible, though, try to give the Aquaseal® another twelve hours to finish curing.

Phone books work great too, but I think Adam has them all so he can see over the wheel.

If you have smaller pinholes that don't require patching, or if you need to clean up the outside of your patch job, all you need is the Aquaseal® and a small disposable paint brush. As with the patch job, you need to clean the area with alcohol before proceeding. Once clean, brush on the Aquaseal® over the area, and extend beyond any pinholes and abrasions. This time, since nothing is being glued, just keep the area flat and allow to dry overnight. Aquaseal® dries clear and is abrasion resistant, so it can be used on the outside of your waders as well. This helps make sure you have created a good waterproof barrier to keep you dry once again.

worn spot covered
Tiny pinholes or areas that just looked thin through the light can just be coated with Aquaseal® with no patching needed.

Repairing your waders and other dry gear is not hard work, though it can be time consuming. But, in the end, I think it is well worth doing. It will keep you dryer, warmer, and safer when on the water doing some fishing.

Read 11996 times Last modified on Tuesday, 26 November 2013 21:35
Isaac Miller

About the Author: Isaac Miller considers himself an "equal opportunity angler" and will fish anything that will take a hook. Isaac often makes live internet video broadcasts when fishing from his kayaks, giving up-to-the-second reports on conditions and tackle choices. He also blogs at www.isaac-online.com and is a YakAngler.com Pro Staffer as well as Co-Host for Kayak Fishing Radio's Wild West show, PR Director for Recycled Fish, and co-owner of Green Tackle.

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