First, let me say this: kayaks will never be 100% dry. It doesn’t matter if you’re in a sit in, sit on or a hybrid. Water, especially in relation to scupper holes, will be around. It’s just how it is. Not to be glib but that is similar to going outside and not wanting to touch the ground. It’s just not reality. I can however offer a suggestion for those of you getting lots of water through your scupper holes and it relates to our other discussion. Let’s talk about weight capacity.
Pretty much every kayak lists a weight capacity. A common misunderstanding is the number and what it means. If a kayak lists a weight capacity at 350 pounds, that doesn’t mean a 350 pound person can paddle it. The weight capacity indicates the amount of weight a kayak can hold and still float. For a sit on top, that means it would be just at the water line so most of the kayak would be under the water. There is just no way you could paddle that. So if the weight capacity says 350, what is the paddler size that could paddle that kayak?
There is some debate on the actual number. A minimum number I like to use is 25%. You should subtract 25% of the weight capacity to ensure you are in the safe zone. You should be able to paddle the kayak and be fairly safe. 25% from 350 would be a person weighing 262.5 pounds or less. And that is only if you aren’t carrying any gear. Use a bathroom scale and stack your gear on it to get that number, add it to your clothed (with shoes) weight and include your waders if you’ll be wearing them. This would mean a maximum person weight of around 230 pounds if you pack a bunch of gear. You’ll have to check out your gear weight to know exactly.
But wait! There’s more! Just because you’re in the safe zone at 25%, it doesn’t mean it is dry, easy or efficient to paddle. To have less water coming in the scuppers and be more efficient when paddling (the kayak moves further per paddle stroke) you should look at a number closer to 50%. So for gear and a person to remain fairly dry and be efficient paddling, a 350 pound weight capacity would best be paddled by someone weighing around 150 pounds. That would give you about 25 pounds for gear.
That may be some new information for lots of folks. It may also explain why you are getting quite a bit of water in your scuppers if you have a sit on top. Scupper plugs can help but if you really want to be efficient (and less wet) calculate what you need for the weight capacity to be.
Entry level kayaks are often lower in the weight capacity. Make sure you check that number. For under a thousand dollars you can get into several different makes or models that have 450 pound capacities. And keep in mind, that’s purchasing new. Many folks can find great deals on used kayaks that are better made and with higher weight capacity. If you don’t know what you are looking for when you look for a used kayak, take a long time paddler. If they aren’t available, I’d be happy to help. Feel free to send me a message and I’ll do what I can electronically. Posting in fishing forums can also be a help. Many kayakers have gone through the process and can talk to you about key things to consider.
The most important thing though, before you buy, if at all possible, is demo, demo, demo!
Have a question or comment? Let me know! What do you guys want to talk about next week?
Comments
There are different formulas for power or human powered boats. Basically Here are the two basic formulas. W = (maximum displacement - boat weight)/7
and
W = {(maximum displacement)/5 } - {(boat weight)/5} - {(4*(machinery weight)/5)}
The basic idea is to not exceed 20-30%of the total displacement weight including machinery and people.
For human powered boats, let's use Minorcan's formula from 183.37
Capacity is equal to max displacement-bo at weight divided by seven.
I'm going to simplify this a touch.
Cap= (MD-BW)/7
If the boat weight is 65 pounds and the capacity is listed at 350 it will look like this.
350=(MD-65)/7 so
Max displacement is = 2515.
What exactly does that mean to the consumer? For most of us, not a lot.
The statement," The weight capacity indicates the amount of weight a kayak can hold and still float" I made is simplified and not technically correct as pointed out. To get the max displacement number they add weight to the boat and measure the weight of the water displaced, not just try to sink the boat and call it good.
Thanks for the clarification MC.
If you don't believe me get five to eight people to try and submerge a sit-on-top kayak in shallow water. You'll be amazed how difficult it will be if you can even do it.
Another example is the Ride 115 and its rating of 500 pounds. This kayak would take a force of 3422 pounds to submerge it. I tried to sink it with sand bags and couldn't fit enough on top to submerge it totally. It's amazing where your mind can wander when contemplating since and math problems.
Yes, since you do not weight 7 times the weight rating. But the boat will not handle as designed/intend ed.
Is this kayak sufficient for me?
It will be close with your fishing gear etc.
If i were you, I'd bring as little great as possible, but definitely bring enough water. But it should work!